Interactive Winter Crossing - January 9, 2008

(note: check back over time as I add more information to these posts, such as additional video, menus, etc.)

Third full sea day and we're back to dreary weather again and Queen Victoria is off to port again.  Early in the AM, the switch had been made, with her dropping off speed and then slipping behind us, and then catching back up.  I wonder if we slowed down so she could catch up with all of her engines running!

Once again, my favorite area was off limits due to the high winds.  I spotted activity on the open bridge wing, one of QE2's now somewhat unique features among the current fleet of cruise ships, which predominantly have enclosed bridges, full width of the ship.

Turns out is was Captain McNaught, wearing glasses with what looked like one very lucky passenger.  I would make my attempt once again, writing the Captain to request a bridge tour, on this trip, only to be turned down yet again "due to security reasons."  At least I got a letter signed from the captain expressing his regrets.

Seas and wind pretty much curtailed all outdoor activities for the day.  At this point, I'm starting to appreciate the view a bit better, thinking to myself that at least the stern decks are tiered more like a traditional ocean liner, at least in appearance.  These areas are all large private balconied cabins and not public spaces such as on QE2.  Either way, I'm trying to like Queen Victoria from afar.

Here's a view of the port side Boat Deck, taken from the protected area near the stairs to the forward observation deck.  A few brave passengers were about, but walking on deck today, into the wind, was more challenging and the older passengers stayed indoors.

As you can see, it was windy and the spray off QE2 hull was in the air and wreaking havoc on my camera lens.



























Back inside, at the top of the A stairway, is a model that was once on display in the original configuration of the Britannia Restaurant.  I am not sure what the name or significance of this ship is.  It is not the Cunard's original Britannia as she was a sidewheeler.  The wall coverings and artwork in this stair are essentially as they were since the ship was built.  Carpets have been changed and the balustrade modified over time to comply with newer safety standards.  The A stair is a bit of a mystery to those unfamiliar with the history of the ship.  A few floors are bypassed at the upper levels, a function of the two class layout that the ship had when originally constructed.  I would use this stair every day to go from our 3 Deck level directly to the Boat Deck; a very nice workout to work off all the "Full English" breakfasts, pub lunches (with Guinness), and the wonderful dinners in Caronia Restaurant.

This carving was oddly positioned in the A Stair upper lobby, in front of what is now the Mauretania Restaurant.  This carving of Britannia was commissioned by Lloyds of London and presented to Cunard and one stood on display in the original configuration of the Britannia Restaurant.  Original plastic laminate wall coverings, whose pattern was specifically designed for the ship, along with some of the original modern art on display are visible to the right.  The red balustrade is original, but the metal handrail installed above to increase the height, are a later addition.

Additional information on the history and refurbishment of this iconic carving can be found here, on Commodore Warwick's son's QE2 website.

Queen Victoria turned on all her exterior lights early on in the afternoon as the skies darkened.  She was looking rather smart cutting through the seas now.  I kept saying "she's the future so embrace her."  Still, the funnel, a clear QE2 knock-off, appears oddly placed towards the rear, instead of more amidships as QE2's, probably purely a function of locating the engines farther aft closer to her Asipod propulsion units.

Here, I believe I am standing just outside the revolving door entrance to one of the main gift ships, protected a bit from the elements as it began to rain again.  It appeared that the seas had kicked up a bit too in response to the higher winds.

Those standing beside me, chatting about Cunard's future and clicking away at the same time were treated to a few spectacular moments.  I wished I had a better camera at this time to capture this in the low light conditions.

We were have such a grand time on board doing nothing (well not really since the days were filled with Cunard Enrichment lectures, bridge lessons, and elegant dining) and thoroughly enjoying it
; so much so that these are all the photos I took for the day! 

Interactive Winter Crossing - January 8, 2008

(note: check back over time as I add more information to these posts, such as additional video, menus, etc.)

Second full day at sea and we awoke to rain and wind, with seas still whipped up a bit, but by this time, we had our "sea legs."

Queen Victoria was now off to the starboard, and actually quite close at times.  Thankfully, there were bits of blue sky poking through, signalling the weather might be improving.

The view from one of our cabin windows.  That bit of Federal Grey paint on the glass would irritate me the entire crossing!  At this point, the sun was finally out and it was actually warm.  We must be in the Gulf Stream now.

My favorite part of the ship remained closed, due to the high winds.  People were lining up on this side of the ship today to watch how the new Cunarder handled in the North Atlantic.  In the midst of all the talk about this and the overall sadness most were feeling that this was truly an historic crossing, passengers mentioned how special it was to cross and have something to look at; Queen Victoria off either side of the ship.  Not having done another crossing to compare this one too, I guess this does make some sense.

I heard one person mention that it was reassuring to have another ship at our side if QE2 broke down in the middle of the Atlantic.  I rather thought the opposite; that passengers on Queen Victoria should be sleep easier that a time tested true liner was at her side.  I had to bite my tongue, but chatted further with them and later found out they were on board for the first time and really did not know too much about the ship or even of Cunard in general.  I told them the Cunard Heritage Tour cannot be missed and after that, they would truly "get it" about QE2.

I had read about the Funnel Bar renovations that had been done since the last time we sailed in 2000 and decided to venture up to check it out. I encountered a sea of passengers reclined in their steamer chairs, with QE2 embroidered blankets, sipping on their hot bouillon, a Cunard crossing tradition! Those blankets are cherished now and unfortunately not a one got lost in my luggage.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
 

Today, we made it to the Golden Lion for a Fish n' Chip pub lunch, with a Guinness and yummy mushy peas.  I had come quite fond of this dish, having experienced it in London prior to sailing and the QE2 kitchen did not disappoint.  We had quite a long wait to experience this dish since it appeared our waiter was very overworked!  We also had to wait for a table and were rewarded with a nice table with a view of Queen Victoria.  While we sat in the non-smoking section, with the smokers only a table away, that was an utter joke.  Who cares...we were on board QE2 and having a pub lunch with a view!

With Queen Victoria all lit up off to starboard, we heading off to dinner, giving the new tux I had bought for this trip some use.  We dined in the Caronia Restaurant, due to our cabin selection.  I had booked a Caronia grade cabin "guarantee" and we were rewarded with a two grade upgrade, to a C1 grade room.  With this venue set up as a single seating dining experience, the dining experience was never rushed or did we feel like the wait staff were hurrying us along for another seating.  This was very nice and with our wonderful table mates and superb wait staff, the dining experience was magical.  This was what I had dreamed QE2 was all about!
 

After dinner, we managed to get a group shot of our entire table, standing in front of the large ship's model at the entrance to the Caronia Restaurant.  Bill and Cassie, on our left, were actually from Connecticut too, while Roger and Wendy, to our right, were from the UK, just outside of London.  Lifetime friendships were made here and for that, we have QE2 to thank. 

I was extremely envious of Roger and Wendy as they were on board for the entire World Cruise, sadly QE2's final one.  Over the next few months, I would receive periodic updates from Roger and experienced the World Cruise through him and the QE2 bridge cam.  We would all later meet in New York City in April for a reunion of sorts, as QE2 stopped for her final port call on her trip back to Southampton.

Interactive Winter Crossing - January 7, 2008

During the evening, both ships sailed into increasingly higher seas and our cabin literally came alive.  The sounds of the ship flexing and the joinery gently flexing were what one would have expected on a wooden sailing ship.  QE2 was specifically designed for the North Atlantic Crossing, accomplished at her service speed of 28.5 knots, in all forms of weather conditions.  With all her cabins having experienced the grueling North Atlantic stresses imposed over 40 years, she's earned the right to be a bit creaky!  I have to admit, the cacophony in the cabin took some getting used to before I fell asleep.  Maybe it was just me listening and enthralled with all her sounds, as if she was actually living and breathing.  If you listen carefully, you can hear the cabin sounds in the opening of today's video.

Looking out our cabin porthole as I awoke, Queen Victoria was nowhere in sight.  In fact, she had moved off to port side of QE2 in the early morning and would stay alongside us for most of the day (trying to keep up with all of her engines running, while QE2 was running on half of her available power.

These pictures do not convey the true sea conditions.  The swells were decent sized (25' perhaps?) and both ships put on quite a show for each other.  I ventured into the Computer Center located up forward to establish my internet access account for WiFi connectivity.  With all the pitching, being in a small room, and staring at a screen for too long, it all started to get to me (I can't read in a car), and I had to get some air on Boat Deck.  Within a few minutes all was much better.  Family and friends think I was crazy to wish for rough seas, but this was exactly what I wanted to experience; QE2 in her element, doing what she was designed to do.  The only thing missing was her speed.  She was "loafing" along at 21-22 knots so that Queen Victoria could keep up.

Queen Victoria showed off her bulbous bow on numerous occasions throughout the day!  From the above picture it, I am not so sure I would want to be in one of those forward balcony cabins, precariously close to the bow during one of her limited crossings.  Now, Queen Victoria was designed as a cruise ship and NOT an ocean liner, but she will do limited crossings.  We were witnessing her first and she was definitely getting a workout.

I had timed it perfectly, being on deck for the noontime whistle test, hearing from afar the similar test taking place on board Queen Victoria.  Later in the afternoon, I would attend the Cunard Heritage Tour, hosted by Cunard's ever entertaining Thomas Quinones.  I filmed a portion of the tour, in which Thomas guides passengers through the ship, stopping at all the various historical artifacts throughout.  Some might say he's a bit over the top in his enthusiasm, but I found it all quite entertaining.  His love of the ship was abundantly clear.  Here's the video of a portion of the tour that I captured.

To cap off the evening, we attended the Captain's Cocktail Party, not wanting to miss the opportunity to meet Captain McNaught for another photograph opportunity from the ship's photographer.  This party was for the passengers dining in the Mauritania Restaurant.  Once all that attended had made their way through the receiving line for the requisite photo and handshake with the Captain, we were treated to crew introductions, followed by comments from the Captain himself.  Here's the video of Captain McNaught's pithy and witty comments, which perfectly illustrate why he is so beloved by QE2's fans.

Interactive Winter Crossing - January 6, 2008

In the spirt of Cunard's current Interactive Transatlantic Crossing, here is the first installment of the retro version. 

Four years ago today, I boarded QE2 for her final Winter Crossing, a very special crossing not only for this reason, but because we would be doing this in tandem with the new Queen Victoria, which would be making this crossing for the first time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cave-MF2yHs

The check-in computer system broke down and we waited, with much anticipation, to board for over an hour in the terminal.  Due to the delay, by the time we finally had our picture taken and were allowed to board, the photographer along with the life ring had all been packed up.  Very dissappointed since that picture would have implied we were going on the entire World Cruise.  In fact, we even missed the mandatory lifeboat drill.  Nevertheless, we were finally onboard for QE2's final Winter Crossing and the first leg of her final World Cruise. 

Goodbye QM2

Here's a video compilation of the the QM2 bridgecam, showing her sailing off into the sunset, along with my enthusiasm for Cunard at this moment.  This whole reflagging mess that has been created by Carnival/Cunard has me re-evaluating where to spend my cruise dollars next.  With this one move, I am now seeing the future of Cunard in a different light.  I am deeply saddened to say that I have no desire to sail on Cunard now.  The reality of what they're really about is now staring me straight in the face.
 
In the past, I've been willing to accept higher prices for a bit of that so called "Cunard 171 years of tradition", knowing all along that there was a bit of trickery going on behind the scenes, but I justified it all as necessary to remain profitable.  Now, with the move to reflag the entire Cunard fleet to Bermuda to skirt paying higher wages to crew disguised around the trumped up issue of needing need to have weddings on Cunarders to remain profitable, suddenly, the line has lost its polish.  All the marketing prose I have lapped up for years is ringing a bit hollow.

What most irritates me is how disingenuous the excuse has been on the part of Cunard and taking loyal cruisers, which I count myself as previously one, for granted.  This line exists solely on its history and now they've sold out on that.  What other cruise line do people take because of the lines history or the port displayed on the stern or even the flag flown?  Only one; Cunard.  I highly doubt a single soul is booking an NCL cruise for their Norwegian heritage or even Holland America for their Dutch ties.  Cunard touts their history with various versions of QE2's Heritage Trail on their ships.  A Heritage Trail on a NCL ship is a laughable thought.  Would they highlight their disposal of their own flagship, the Norway?

Cunard beards have screwed with the very thing that attracts people to the line, the British Maritime History.  Shame on them.  This obviously company written press release is absolute rubbish.  Just as I was getting over Mr. Shank's comments uttered at QE2's farewell in Southampton that QE2 was holding the brand back, he come's out with this marrage excuse to further water down the brand.  Then, as an insult to injury, Cunard posts this utterly ridiculous response to the growing discontent among Cunard fans on the their Facebook page.  It's been all quiet since this one response on their part. 

The loyal fans have not been quiet though, as long list of negative comments demonstrates.  Reading that this very process is not new, having previously been  done on another Carnival owed line, P & O in the not to distant past wrapped around the same wedding excuse, I cynically feel this is all calculated.  If the Carnival beards could not foresee the backlash, then they have no clue what they've got with CUNARD.


I am insulted.  Only eight ships with the Southampton name?  What about Liverpool?  The real question is how many Cunard passenger ships were NOT flagged in the UK?  In all fairness to Mr Shanks, I have no idea what ultimately was his role as President of the line is in this.  Did he personally write this lame attempt at damage control?  One has to wonder whether it goes farther up the command.  With all his recent comments about QE2 and the history of Cunard, I was really thinking he finally "got it" regarding why so many fans still long for QE2 and the rich history of the line.  Mr. Shanks, show us your real passion for this line and how you fought to the bitter end to preserve its heritage.  I suspect most of us Cunarders would be more willing to accept this change if we were told the truth and shown how far the company went to keep Southampton on the sterns of the fleet.

Going back to 1998, Micky Arison, President of Carnival Corporation, bought the line and inherited a rich maritime history along with the most famous ship in the world, QE2.  He built his dream of an ocean liner, yet compromised it with the additional decks, a stubby funnel, and unreliable pod propulsion.  Not that I like it, I get all that actually.  It had to be financially feasible to put that amount of money into a ship and those tough decisions had to be made.  Later Micky goes on to sell QE2 for a cool 100 million and washes his hands of her, deftly avoiding the whole messy disposal question.  It is obvious that Cunard was not going to repeat NCL's mistakes with the Norway. 

Now I've consistently touted the fact that if it wasn't for Carnival, QE2 would have never had the lavish care right up to her retirement, nor would there have even been a replacement built. Carnival saved Cunard, but now it seemed like the brand has become homogenized as it has been brought under the umbrella of the "World's Leading Cruise Lines."

Ultimately, the goal of the line is to turn a profit, and as as a shareholder myself, I am in complete agreement there.  Sadly, there appears to be a perceptibly slow, drip, drip like, erosion of the Cunard brand.  I have seen it and I am by far not a frequent passenger (Gold World Club status for fellow Cunarders), yet  I still notice.  With this move to reflag the fleet, the Flagship of the fleet, QM2 will no longer be the pride of the British Merchant Marine, nor will the new plastic Lizzy be able to continue to use the radio call sign "GBTT", with it's long history with the great Clyde-built Queens.  Wasn't there much fanfare over the transfer of this call sign from QE2 to QE(3) by Cunard only a short time ago?  Cunard has messed with it's history and tradition.  That is a recipe for disaster for that was the one thing that set the line apart from all the rest.  What is next?  Rock climbing walls and water slides?  Hairy chest contests at the pool?  So much for tradition. 

In a way, this decision has been liberating, freeing me up to look at other ways to spend our limited vacation dollars.  Perhaps a trip to see the original Mary and the fine Scottish craftsmanship in  authentic Art Deco style is what I need.  At least Liverpool is still displayed on her stern.

Three Years Ago

October 16, 2008, Queen Elizabeth 2, left New York under command of  Captain Ian McNaught, for her final transatlantic crossing of her career.  This would be a tandem crossing with Cunard Line's Queen Mary 2, the purpose built flagship of Cunard and replacement for QE2.  I watched her departure from a chartered NY Watertaxi on the Hudson River.  Captain McNaught, QE2's final Master and biggest fan, with her paying out pennant flying (the long thin one at the top)  from the foremast, gave us a wave from the iconic open bridge wing as she passed us on her way down the Hudson for the rendevous with Queen Mary 2.  Here is a video compilation of the event. 

As we made one final pass around the ship, we all noted that it appeared that almost every porthole and cabin window were lit up for this final departure.  Were the cabin stewards all instructed to turn on all cabin lights and pull back curtains?  We'll never know, but nevertheless, it made for a spectacular site for QE2 fans, marking the end to an era.  The boat ride back to the dock was a quiet one, with those onboard seemly all quietly reflecting on the event that just transpired.

So Far From Home

Three years ago today, I was onboard QE2, anchored off the Forth Rail Bridge in Queensferry, Scotland.  This day would be the last day she would fly the St. Andrews Flag of Scotland.  As with dinner each night, we were presented with another special menu, commemorating the day, as shown above.  Obsessed QE2 fans will easily spot when this photo was originally taken by the so called "speed stripe" visible on her hull below the Cunard logo and running aft.  By the time I saw her in 2000, this stripe had been removed.  I did not notice this since my true obsession had not yet fully blossomed until I had experienced the ship for the first time.

Reflecting on the past three years, it has been a bit of a roller coaster ride; witnessing the sad farewell in NYC, staying up all night watching her run aground on the AIS website on her final approach to Southampton, catching all the coverage of her final departure from Southampton,  barely stomaching the arrival in Dubai, scouring the internet for any news of the conversion plans, finding http://www.qe2story.com/ and connecting with fans suffering with the same sense of loss and fustration over the lack of news, utter joy in seeing her in drydock for a cleaning and mainenance work for a planned sailing to Capetown for the World Cup, devastation when the Capetown deal is scuttled for whatever reason, worrying over her condition after seeing rumors posted on various boards, relief and utter sadness watching Rob Lightbody's videos of his exclusive visit to the ship, and most currently, more worries after seeing the reports that the plan to put her in the planned Dubai development have been scuttled. 

I think these words written on the back of one of the commemorative dinner menus still ring true today, three years later........