Interactive Winter Crossing - January 7, 2008

During the evening, both ships sailed into increasingly higher seas and our cabin literally came alive.  The sounds of the ship flexing and the joinery gently flexing were what one would have expected on a wooden sailing ship.  QE2 was specifically designed for the North Atlantic Crossing, accomplished at her service speed of 28.5 knots, in all forms of weather conditions.  With all her cabins having experienced the grueling North Atlantic stresses imposed over 40 years, she's earned the right to be a bit creaky!  I have to admit, the cacophony in the cabin took some getting used to before I fell asleep.  Maybe it was just me listening and enthralled with all her sounds, as if she was actually living and breathing.  If you listen carefully, you can hear the cabin sounds in the opening of today's video.

Looking out our cabin porthole as I awoke, Queen Victoria was nowhere in sight.  In fact, she had moved off to port side of QE2 in the early morning and would stay alongside us for most of the day (trying to keep up with all of her engines running, while QE2 was running on half of her available power.

These pictures do not convey the true sea conditions.  The swells were decent sized (25' perhaps?) and both ships put on quite a show for each other.  I ventured into the Computer Center located up forward to establish my internet access account for WiFi connectivity.  With all the pitching, being in a small room, and staring at a screen for too long, it all started to get to me (I can't read in a car), and I had to get some air on Boat Deck.  Within a few minutes all was much better.  Family and friends think I was crazy to wish for rough seas, but this was exactly what I wanted to experience; QE2 in her element, doing what she was designed to do.  The only thing missing was her speed.  She was "loafing" along at 21-22 knots so that Queen Victoria could keep up.

Queen Victoria showed off her bulbous bow on numerous occasions throughout the day!  From the above picture it, I am not so sure I would want to be in one of those forward balcony cabins, precariously close to the bow during one of her limited crossings.  Now, Queen Victoria was designed as a cruise ship and NOT an ocean liner, but she will do limited crossings.  We were witnessing her first and she was definitely getting a workout.

I had timed it perfectly, being on deck for the noontime whistle test, hearing from afar the similar test taking place on board Queen Victoria.  Later in the afternoon, I would attend the Cunard Heritage Tour, hosted by Cunard's ever entertaining Thomas Quinones.  I filmed a portion of the tour, in which Thomas guides passengers through the ship, stopping at all the various historical artifacts throughout.  Some might say he's a bit over the top in his enthusiasm, but I found it all quite entertaining.  His love of the ship was abundantly clear.  Here's the video of a portion of the tour that I captured.

To cap off the evening, we attended the Captain's Cocktail Party, not wanting to miss the opportunity to meet Captain McNaught for another photograph opportunity from the ship's photographer.  This party was for the passengers dining in the Mauritania Restaurant.  Once all that attended had made their way through the receiving line for the requisite photo and handshake with the Captain, we were treated to crew introductions, followed by comments from the Captain himself.  Here's the video of Captain McNaught's pithy and witty comments, which perfectly illustrate why he is so beloved by QE2's fans.

Interactive Winter Crossing - January 6, 2008

In the spirt of Cunard's current Interactive Transatlantic Crossing, here is the first installment of the retro version. 

Four years ago today, I boarded QE2 for her final Winter Crossing, a very special crossing not only for this reason, but because we would be doing this in tandem with the new Queen Victoria, which would be making this crossing for the first time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cave-MF2yHs

The check-in computer system broke down and we waited, with much anticipation, to board for over an hour in the terminal.  Due to the delay, by the time we finally had our picture taken and were allowed to board, the photographer along with the life ring had all been packed up.  Very dissappointed since that picture would have implied we were going on the entire World Cruise.  In fact, we even missed the mandatory lifeboat drill.  Nevertheless, we were finally onboard for QE2's final Winter Crossing and the first leg of her final World Cruise. 

Goodbye QM2

Here's a video compilation of the the QM2 bridgecam, showing her sailing off into the sunset, along with my enthusiasm for Cunard at this moment.  This whole reflagging mess that has been created by Carnival/Cunard has me re-evaluating where to spend my cruise dollars next.  With this one move, I am now seeing the future of Cunard in a different light.  I am deeply saddened to say that I have no desire to sail on Cunard now.  The reality of what they're really about is now staring me straight in the face.
 
In the past, I've been willing to accept higher prices for a bit of that so called "Cunard 171 years of tradition", knowing all along that there was a bit of trickery going on behind the scenes, but I justified it all as necessary to remain profitable.  Now, with the move to reflag the entire Cunard fleet to Bermuda to skirt paying higher wages to crew disguised around the trumped up issue of needing need to have weddings on Cunarders to remain profitable, suddenly, the line has lost its polish.  All the marketing prose I have lapped up for years is ringing a bit hollow.

What most irritates me is how disingenuous the excuse has been on the part of Cunard and taking loyal cruisers, which I count myself as previously one, for granted.  This line exists solely on its history and now they've sold out on that.  What other cruise line do people take because of the lines history or the port displayed on the stern or even the flag flown?  Only one; Cunard.  I highly doubt a single soul is booking an NCL cruise for their Norwegian heritage or even Holland America for their Dutch ties.  Cunard touts their history with various versions of QE2's Heritage Trail on their ships.  A Heritage Trail on a NCL ship is a laughable thought.  Would they highlight their disposal of their own flagship, the Norway?

Cunard beards have screwed with the very thing that attracts people to the line, the British Maritime History.  Shame on them.  This obviously company written press release is absolute rubbish.  Just as I was getting over Mr. Shank's comments uttered at QE2's farewell in Southampton that QE2 was holding the brand back, he come's out with this marrage excuse to further water down the brand.  Then, as an insult to injury, Cunard posts this utterly ridiculous response to the growing discontent among Cunard fans on the their Facebook page.  It's been all quiet since this one response on their part. 

The loyal fans have not been quiet though, as long list of negative comments demonstrates.  Reading that this very process is not new, having previously been  done on another Carnival owed line, P & O in the not to distant past wrapped around the same wedding excuse, I cynically feel this is all calculated.  If the Carnival beards could not foresee the backlash, then they have no clue what they've got with CUNARD.


I am insulted.  Only eight ships with the Southampton name?  What about Liverpool?  The real question is how many Cunard passenger ships were NOT flagged in the UK?  In all fairness to Mr Shanks, I have no idea what ultimately was his role as President of the line is in this.  Did he personally write this lame attempt at damage control?  One has to wonder whether it goes farther up the command.  With all his recent comments about QE2 and the history of Cunard, I was really thinking he finally "got it" regarding why so many fans still long for QE2 and the rich history of the line.  Mr. Shanks, show us your real passion for this line and how you fought to the bitter end to preserve its heritage.  I suspect most of us Cunarders would be more willing to accept this change if we were told the truth and shown how far the company went to keep Southampton on the sterns of the fleet.

Going back to 1998, Micky Arison, President of Carnival Corporation, bought the line and inherited a rich maritime history along with the most famous ship in the world, QE2.  He built his dream of an ocean liner, yet compromised it with the additional decks, a stubby funnel, and unreliable pod propulsion.  Not that I like it, I get all that actually.  It had to be financially feasible to put that amount of money into a ship and those tough decisions had to be made.  Later Micky goes on to sell QE2 for a cool 100 million and washes his hands of her, deftly avoiding the whole messy disposal question.  It is obvious that Cunard was not going to repeat NCL's mistakes with the Norway. 

Now I've consistently touted the fact that if it wasn't for Carnival, QE2 would have never had the lavish care right up to her retirement, nor would there have even been a replacement built. Carnival saved Cunard, but now it seemed like the brand has become homogenized as it has been brought under the umbrella of the "World's Leading Cruise Lines."

Ultimately, the goal of the line is to turn a profit, and as as a shareholder myself, I am in complete agreement there.  Sadly, there appears to be a perceptibly slow, drip, drip like, erosion of the Cunard brand.  I have seen it and I am by far not a frequent passenger (Gold World Club status for fellow Cunarders), yet  I still notice.  With this move to reflag the fleet, the Flagship of the fleet, QM2 will no longer be the pride of the British Merchant Marine, nor will the new plastic Lizzy be able to continue to use the radio call sign "GBTT", with it's long history with the great Clyde-built Queens.  Wasn't there much fanfare over the transfer of this call sign from QE2 to QE(3) by Cunard only a short time ago?  Cunard has messed with it's history and tradition.  That is a recipe for disaster for that was the one thing that set the line apart from all the rest.  What is next?  Rock climbing walls and water slides?  Hairy chest contests at the pool?  So much for tradition. 

In a way, this decision has been liberating, freeing me up to look at other ways to spend our limited vacation dollars.  Perhaps a trip to see the original Mary and the fine Scottish craftsmanship in  authentic Art Deco style is what I need.  At least Liverpool is still displayed on her stern.

Three Years Ago

October 16, 2008, Queen Elizabeth 2, left New York under command of  Captain Ian McNaught, for her final transatlantic crossing of her career.  This would be a tandem crossing with Cunard Line's Queen Mary 2, the purpose built flagship of Cunard and replacement for QE2.  I watched her departure from a chartered NY Watertaxi on the Hudson River.  Captain McNaught, QE2's final Master and biggest fan, with her paying out pennant flying (the long thin one at the top)  from the foremast, gave us a wave from the iconic open bridge wing as she passed us on her way down the Hudson for the rendevous with Queen Mary 2.  Here is a video compilation of the event. 

As we made one final pass around the ship, we all noted that it appeared that almost every porthole and cabin window were lit up for this final departure.  Were the cabin stewards all instructed to turn on all cabin lights and pull back curtains?  We'll never know, but nevertheless, it made for a spectacular site for QE2 fans, marking the end to an era.  The boat ride back to the dock was a quiet one, with those onboard seemly all quietly reflecting on the event that just transpired.

So Far From Home

Three years ago today, I was onboard QE2, anchored off the Forth Rail Bridge in Queensferry, Scotland.  This day would be the last day she would fly the St. Andrews Flag of Scotland.  As with dinner each night, we were presented with another special menu, commemorating the day, as shown above.  Obsessed QE2 fans will easily spot when this photo was originally taken by the so called "speed stripe" visible on her hull below the Cunard logo and running aft.  By the time I saw her in 2000, this stripe had been removed.  I did not notice this since my true obsession had not yet fully blossomed until I had experienced the ship for the first time.

Reflecting on the past three years, it has been a bit of a roller coaster ride; witnessing the sad farewell in NYC, staying up all night watching her run aground on the AIS website on her final approach to Southampton, catching all the coverage of her final departure from Southampton,  barely stomaching the arrival in Dubai, scouring the internet for any news of the conversion plans, finding http://www.qe2story.com/ and connecting with fans suffering with the same sense of loss and fustration over the lack of news, utter joy in seeing her in drydock for a cleaning and mainenance work for a planned sailing to Capetown for the World Cup, devastation when the Capetown deal is scuttled for whatever reason, worrying over her condition after seeing rumors posted on various boards, relief and utter sadness watching Rob Lightbody's videos of his exclusive visit to the ship, and most currently, more worries after seeing the reports that the plan to put her in the planned Dubai development have been scuttled. 

I think these words written on the back of one of the commemorative dinner menus still ring true today, three years later........

Liner Bows

People ask me "Why the fascination in QE2 and her replacement QM2?"  My response is always because both are true ocean liners and there is nothing quite like traveling at speed through less than idea seas.  It is both exhilarating and reassuring that you are on board a ship that can handle the toughest weather that can be thrown at her.  Those comments inevitably launch into a discussion of ocean liners and their differences from the typical cruise ship of today and that often used phrase "form follows function."  It really does apply here. 

Ocean liners are ships traditionally purposely designed to ferry passengers on a specific route or a "line" on a schedule.  The traditional "line" crossing of the Atlantic required a ship with speed to make the crossing under five days, at the highpoint of this type of travel to and from Europe, and to make this crossing safely,on time, and with consistency, despite the weather and sea conditions.  Before the arrival of the Boeing 707, this was the main way to get to Europe and the ships could be regarded as very large and elegant ferries, depending on your class of cabin.  Nowadays, cruise ships are used mostly as "the" destination and not as a pure form of transportation to get to a destination.

Oddly enough, though, QE2 was designed to function as both North Atlantic ferry and cruise ship.  In fact, when the ship was introduced, there was a conscious effort put forth in the advertising that the ship itself was the destination.  This turned out to be the case throughout her service life. 

To this date, Cunard effectively uses this strategy with their current ships, the true ocean liner Queen Mary 2 and the cruise ships Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth.  Both of these ships are designed for the cruising mode, at reduced speeds, which is reflected in more fuller bow sections, which give more interior space, with the resulting less efficient hull form.

Now, the North Atlantic can be notoriously rough certain times of the year, usually from late Autumn to early Spring.  Ships built for this application require strengthened hulls to take the constant strains imposed upon them all the while at the high speeds necessary to keep to their published schedules.  These design constraints dictated slender bow sections to efficiently slice through the seas, bow profiles to deflect the seas in all conditions, and big powerplants to drive these ships at speeds averaging over 28 knots.  Even with this speed, there had to be extra reserve speed available to make up time when bad weather was encountered.  As illustrated in the photo above, QE2's bow configuration was designed for speed and seaworthiness.  In fact, this hull design was one of the first passenger ships modeled with the earliest computer aided design back in the early 1960's.  This hull form was so successful that when the time came to design her replacement, Queen Mary 2, her bow sections were basically lifted right from QE2.  According to her Naval Architect, Stephen Payne, even with all the most sophisticated modeling software available today, they ended up with a scaled up version of QE2's bow, but with a more efficient bulbous bow design.  In the end, why mess with success!

This head on bow shot of the Carnival Miracle shows the difference in bow designs and is the basic hull design that the Cunard Queen Victoria/Elizabeth sisterships has evolved from.  Not that there is anything wrong with this ship in my eyes, mind you, but as form follows function, this ship is designed for cruising speeds maximum of about 22 knots, and must slow considerable when encountering rough seas. 

I am eagerly anticipating another winter crossing on a liner, Queen Mary 2, in January, and hope to see first hand how she handles the North Atlantic like QE2 and her predecessors.

Queen Mary 2 in Manhattan

July 1st was a special day in New York City for ocean liner enthusiasts and fans of Cunard Line's Queen Mary 2.  Nowadays, the ship docks at the new cruise ship pier in Brooklyn, but this day, another Carnival owned ship, the Caribbean Princess, which uses the Brooklyn pier exclusively, was also scheduled to be in port.  Queen Mary 2 would be "forced"to dock once again at the Manhattan Cruise Ship terminal, the piers she was originally specifically designed for and the same piers used by her predecessors, Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, and most recently Queen Elizabeth 2.  For traditionalists, and many former QE2 passengers accustomed to the traditional Manhattan pier, this pier change was a very special treat.

Having made this trek up the Hudson on QE2 back in January of 2008, I can attest this is definitely the best way to arrive in New York City, treated to the beacon of the Statue of Liberty in the early morning on the portside and the entire Manhattan skyline on the starboard side.  This time I would be standing on the renovated Pier 86 in shorts and a polo shirt rather than standing beneath the bridge of QE2, all bundled up and trying to keep my finger on the camera shutter from frostbite.  The weather was picture perfect.  As QM2 appeared in the distance, the morning sun appeared and lit up the ship rather theatrically, highlighting the iconic funnel.  Although QM2 is demonstrably larger than QE2, the ship she replaced, she is every much a liner and a standout amongst the current batch of cruise ship resembling stacks of apartment flats.

In the early morning sun, it was apparent that the ship has suffered some hull damage, in the awkward area of the stern required for the pod propulsion units.  More than likely it was a bump to a pier.  Didn't she make headlines with a mishap at some port in Europe?  The ship is scheduled for drydocking this fall and it clear that she's due for some refurbishment;  antifouling paint is very worn and the hull is in need of repainting.

Queen Mary 2 docked at Pier 88, originally the French Line pier where the Normandie tragically caught on fire during its conversion to troop ship during WWII.  Attempts to extinguish the fire added water to the hull that eventually led to the ship rolling over in the pier and sinking.  With the ship a loss, it sat for much of the war in the pier, as a sad reminder of the war. Carnival Miracle would arrive and quickly dock on the opposite of QM2 at the pier and I was treated to a nice view of several tails; the French built Queen Mary 2, Finnish built Carnival Miracle, British built Concorde SST, and American built  U.S.S. Intrepid.

Before meeting up with ocean liner friends (some getting off QM2, others joining the ship this day for the traditional Fourth of July cruise), I planned to walk the entire waterfront from the Cruise Terminal down to Battery Park and take advantage of the picture perfect weather.  While I would end up seeing such maritime relics such as the Lightship Frying Pan and the fireboat John J. Harvey, my main goal was to get an up close view of the once glorious Cunard Line Pier 54 of the Chelsea Piers.  I've seen it from the water, having it's historic nature pointed out to us on the decks of QE2 and Circle Line excursion boats. 

On the rusted ironwork face, you can still make out both names, the original Cunard Line, and then the subsequent Cunard White Star name of the merger of the two lines which resulted in the completion of the original Queen Mary.

All that most visibly remains is the ironwork arch of the head house and the stone base, which looks like it was fashioned from Stony Creek Granite, from the Stony Creek Quarries of Connecticut that I previously visited through work.  Peering through the fence though, were bits and pieces of the terminal strewn about, including the art deco inspired stone pieces depicted above, a very sad sight.  One can only image what this pier was like in it's heyday.  Sadly this  historic structure, designed by the architects of Grand Central Station, did not escape the wrecking ball.  It was here that the Lusitania sailed for her final time and also where the Cunard Line's Carpathia offloaded survivors of the ill-fated Titanic.

Following lunch, fellow ocean liner enthusiasts and I debated where would the best spot be to see Queen Mary 2 depart.  We would end up taking the New York Watertaxi over to Weehawken, NJ, for the best view of the ships departing that afternoon.  Perched above the access road above the cliffs across from the Cruise Ship Terminal,  it was readily apparent that this was a good decision.

Queen Mary 2 departed on time in the afternoon sun, with short blasts from her original Queen Mary Tyfon horn, which sounded remarkably improved over the last time we heard it while onboard.  She looked ever the part of a classic ocean liner in profile against the Manhattan skyline.

Cunard Line has used several of my pictures in a recent blog post of Cunard President Peter Shanks.

Just above the bow of QM2, the Freedom Tower can be seen rising above the lower Manhattan skyline.  I'll no doubt be back next year, same date, same cruise, and hopefully in Manhattan again (please Cunard make this happen).  Who knows, maybe I'll be onboard.............